The Odyssey: Our transit detour via the island of Zanzibar

The flight from Windhoek to Dar es Salaam was a far easier way to get back, the almost 5000km journey from coast to coast was a couple of hours via Johannesburg airport. We were held up at the border because our visas had been cancelled, and they were trying to make us buy another one. We eventually convinced them that we would only need a transit visa even though that wasn’t entirely truthful as we were heading to Zanzibar. Going from Namibia where it felt like you weren’t in Africa back to Dar es Salaam was a wakeup call. It was dark when we arrived and on the way into town we saw a car blow up and crash into the median barrier, and men on the back of a petrol tanker stealing petrol. We were gridlocked at one point and we could see men up ahead with huge machetes heading for our car looking menacing around; we worked out they were just selling the machetes, but it was scary for us nonetheless.

First thing the next morning we were at the ferry terminal to get a boat to Zanzibar. It was about a two hour journey which we enjoyed from outside as the inside was packed and smelt like the labour ward at the hospital. Juliet bought an enormous bag of popcorn to enjoy on her own as I hate popcorn (I know, I’m a monster), but the wind was so strong every handful she jammed in her mouth loose ones would escape like projectiles and fly into random fellow passengers, startling them with a nutritious snack.

A Dhow sailing the blue yonder

Stone Town, Zanzibar

We’d been told a great place to stay in Zanzibar which was at the Old Dispensary which is a historic building directly opposite the ferry terminal. There is no signage or indication whatsoever that they have rooms to rent, but they have three relatively nice rooms for cheap compared to the rest of Zanzibar.

The Old Dispensary, Zanzibar

To get a feel for Stone Town you really need to get amongst it; this means intentionally getting lost. Once inside there are hundreds of alleyways to walk through, none of them much more than a meter wide. However, motorbikes come hooning down there and when you hear one coming you have to throw yourself into the wall (like you’re playing gecko). We had tried to find St Joseph’s Cathedral on the map, but talking to people they said it’s only really something you stumble across which seemed odd for a large stone church. But sure enough when we’d given up, we were at the gates for the end of the Sunday Service. This cathedral is the eldest in East Africa dating back to 1862, and was designed by M. Berangier, the architect of Notre Dame in Marseilles. It is quite odd seeing a church in a place like Zanzibar where the population is ~98% Muslim. We listened to the choir sing for a while and then went to leave but we’d been locked in; nobody would let us out, we had to go through the parish office and probably someone’s backyard to find an exit.

Walking down an alleyway in Stone Town

Famous Zanzibar carved doors (every shop has these)

Juliet in Stone Town

Saint Joseph's Cathedral

Inside St Joseph's Cathedral

Locked gate at St Joseph's

The next stop was the fort which was built in the late 17^th century by the Omanis to protect them against the Portuguese and their Mazrui allies. We of course wanted to climb it so although nobody else was doing it we found a way up onto the wall then into the turrets, and then onto the roof, beautiful views.

The Old Fort

Juliet on her way to attempt to climb into the turret

On the wall of the Old Fort

It was only around lunch time so we found an Ethiopian restaurant. Now I have always had an interest in Ethiopia because of its rich history, but I was under the impression they suffered from extreme poverty and therefore there wouldn't be a great deal of choice (an empty menu would not suffice); but the food was as rich and varied as the history. I am now thinking strongly about integrating Ethiopia into my next trip.

Our shared Ethiopian meal of mince curry and Juliet's vegetarian curry all on a savory pancake with vegetables

After lunch we decided to visit Prison Island, which was originally used to house rebel slaves, but then later in history was used as a quarantine island where traders and immigrants were taken to be checked for diseases before being allowed onto the island. I would have loved to be put there; it is an island paradise about 20 minutes from Stone Town by boat. It is now home to one of the world’s largest tortoises, the Aldabra tortoise. These guys just love attention aye; we learnt about a little trick about scratching the tortoise between its neck and its shoulder on both sides. You feel like a pervert scratching them there because they come up on all fours, their neck becomes erect and then they start frothing at the mouth, but it is funny to see.

The jetty at Changuu (Prison) Island

Juliet borderline hover-handing this tortoise (Juliet hates animals)

Getting right in there; helping a brother (or sister) out

It looks like I flipped this tortoise over like some kind of sadist but I actually flipped him back

Quarantine area of Prison Island

The view from the cell block

Zanzibar doors & the beach with Juliet

The water around the island was perfect temperature and it was sooo good to finally relax after a long trip. However, the next day the marathon journey was just beginning, Zanzibar-Dar es Salaam-Kilimanjaro-Moshi. My flight was a couple of days after Juliet’s so we said our goodbyes and she was off home via Bangkok.

Time for a swim

Home time on our little boat

Dhow boat heading out to sea from Stone Town

Arriving back at Stone Town

I had met a lovely doctor in Moshi on my travels who worked at the Tanzania Training Centre for Orthopaedic Technologists. This was a centre dedicated to designing artificial limbs for amputees or people born with congenital defects. It was right up my street; I learnt so much and have made contacts there for potentially volunteering in the future.